Daniel Roth Chronograph, Onyx Dial, 2147/O, White Gold

Perhaps one of the most celebrated examples of Roth's watches and independent watchmaking of the 90s as a whole, this 2147 Chronograph is an especially rare iteration that features an onyx dial. This piece is accompanied by a printed catalogue that lists the watches offered at the time. The box and papers that this watch is accompanied by also specifically notes that this is onyx dial with pinstripe guilloché. It's likely that very few of these would have been made, given their rarity on the market.

The quality of the onyx dial is rather elusive, as although it appears as a deep black, there is a distinct sheen when the watch is placed under the light, accentuated by the depth created by the guilloché. More traditionally seen on metal, guilloché is very rarely seen on these dials, although they do surface with brands such as Piaget, who are known for their specialist dial techniques. Additionally, black dials found in Daniel Roth watches are not usually accompanied by a silver chapter ring, which adds to the overall monochromatic appearance.

Turning our attention to the rest of the dial, we see that Roth’s signature is placed just above 12 o’clock, and the number of the piece is below 6 o'clock, in keeping with watchmaking tradition. If you compare this piece with his past work at Breguet, you can see that some of his design choices were transferred, such as the straight lugs, sloped bezel, and polishing throughout the white gold case. The lance-shaped hands, another visual inspiration from the Abraham-Louis Breguet, are rendered in white gold as well, with a special touch – solid white tips, which were requested by the original owner for increased legibility.

Assembled by hand in the brand’s Vallée du Joux workshop, this Daniel Roth Chronograph 2147 is powered by a finely finished Lemania 2320 movement, behind a solid caseback. The movement features a 21 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator. Aesthetically, the calibre is finished to a high standard. The movement features chamfering, polishing and decoration, in the form of Geneva striping.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Daniel Roth Chronograph will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Daniel Roth Chronograph with onyx dial is in very good condition, having remained safely stored for a number of years. The watch show signs of having been worn prior, though appears unpolished, with a sharp case that shows only minor superficial marks and pin-sized imperfections on the lug edges.

The onyx dial shows no signs of cracking or damage. The hour and minute hands were later painted white at the tips for enhanced legibility.

The movement visible through the display caseback is in excellent overall condition.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.