Florent Lecomte began his career as a teacher at the Lycee Edgar Faure in Morteau in 2006 – he had previously studied and taught industrial product design, and only discovered watchmaking after his transfer to the Morteau school. Following two years of training he specialised in teaching students about complicated mechanical watchmaking. Some of Lecomte's pupils have included Remy Cools, Théo Auffret and Cyril Brivet-Naudot, some of the brightest prospects for modern French independent watchmaking. Lecomte own independent career began in 2020, in the midst of the Covid-19 pandemic, and his work channels the style of French master Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since then, he has created three series of watches, all produced and finished by hand in exceedingly small numbers. This is in addition to a couple of unique examples, one of which we have had the pleasure of offering for sale.

While Lecomte’s focus remains on manual finishing, the Series 2 holds special significance as the first watch to feature his specially designed balance. It occupies pride of place on the dial side, anchored by a rounded bridge with a polygon base. The stepped architecture of the balance wheel in effect gives it twin rims, or a double serge as Lecomte refers to it. The watchmaker says, "The large, 14mm diameter, combined with the low frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour give it an almost hypnotic appearance".

The tradition of partially exposing the calibre, and the overall industrial aesthetic so intrinsic to French watchmaking in the 18th and 19th centuries, is followed faithfully in the Series 2. In addition to the balance, the southern half of the dial side is occupied by the open-work subsidiary seconds register and the triangular bridge that anchors it. The balance wheel and the seconds register lie in a deeply recessed portion on the dial side, their layout consistent with the stepped architecture of the balance wheel.

The dial is marked by a brushed chapter with graduated, engraved minutes. This chapter is briefly interrupted by the balance wheel. The dial, wearing a silvered, frosted finish, features the oversized maker’s mark, hand-engraved in an italicised style. The exposed black-polished screws on the dial feature wide, mirror-polished countersinks. Also present on the dial is a plaque with the watch’s serial number of out 12. The edges on the dial’s double bubble cut out – to accommodate the balance and seconds register – are expertly finished. The mirrored anglage is executed evenly, be it on the arced or sharply angled surfaces. Lecomte chose to collaborate with a finishing expert to get this effect just right. He says, "Starting with the Series 2, I decided to collaborate with Philippe Narbel, one of the best watch decorators. Very quickly, a relationship of trust developed, and Philippe is now a friend".

The lower level of the dial also has the same frosted silvered finish while the seconds chapter replicates the form of the minutes register. The heat-blued feuille-style hands complete the picture. Overall, details have been used sparingly and consistently to create visual harmony and for the ultimate goal of easy time-reading.

The stainless steel case, 41mm across and 12mm tall, is mirror-polished on top, with the profiles featuring horizontal satination. So, the thin, rounded bezel is polished, as are the top portions of the lugs, that are marginally stepped away from the case. They stand 22mm apart. The midcase and the profile of the lugs is satinated while the rim of the exhibition caseback is again mirror polished. The crown is well sized and deeply fluted, decorated with a fine engraving of the watchmaker’s initials.

The manually wound calibre, based on the Unitas 6498, has been almost entirely reimagined and recreated. Measuring 37.2mm across, it features two main bridges, both adorned in the frosted finishing seen on the dial side. The shape of the bridges follows the form of the visible wheels of the gear train, forming a ravine-like opening that is wholly consistent with the dial side appearance. The ratchet and mainspring wheels are prominently visible, as is the click spring. The remaining gears of the train are crafted from brass. The jewels feature countersinks that have been hand-bevelled and polished while the edges of the bridges are decorated with anglage. Noticeably absent is any striping, a form of decoration that is both to inconsistent with the French school and Lecomte’s emphasis on hand-finishing.

Lecomte says, "I’m not a fan of the Côtes de Genève; I feel that this finish aesthetically overloads the bridges. I prefer to do sandblasting with a coarse grain and wide, polished bevelling of the edges as I appreciate the contrast between these finishes".

The bridges also bear the original owner's initials, hand-engraved with exaggerated italicised flourish, as well as the Morteau mark. The latter is a point of pride, with Lecomte having chosen to remain and make in his home country rather than seek the convenience of a better-established watchmaking ecosystem in neighbouring Switzerland.

The Series 2 comes with its full set, which includes a beautiful wooden watch box, international warranty paperwork and original bill of sale. Also included is a hand-written note by the watchmaker to the original owner of the watch.

In the rarefied space of independent watchmaking, Lecomte’s craft represents a rarity on several counts. The watchmaker remains committed to country and craft – his steadfastness in championing French watchmaking and traditional handcraft stands him as one of a mere handful. That such fine finishing is available for such value makes Lecomte’s offering singular. Says the watchmaker of the series, "Due to its complexity and high-end finishes, the Series 2 is the one that has confirmed my skills in the eyes of collectors. To date, it is one of my most accomplished creations".

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Florent Lecomte Series 2 will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Florent Lecomte Series 2 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks consistent with minimal wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.